designer dog guide
Let me preface this by saying that I have nothing against mixed breed dogs. I think they can make wonderful pets. This guide is directed at those who are interested in buying a designer dog from a breeder.
As of lately, the latest fad is to get a designer dog. A designer dog is a mix between 2 breeds such as a Labradoodle(Labrador Retriever/Poodle mix), Cockapoo(Cocker Spaniel/Poodle mix), Puggle(Pug/Beagle mix), Schnoodle(Schnauzer/Poodle mix) and the list goes on. Now some of you may be asking yourselves "What are the differences between a Labradoodle and a Labrador/Poodle mix?". The answer is usually nothing. They are the same thing. The main difference is that you can usually find one in a shelter for about $75 and you can buy the other from a breeder for about $3000. Is there a way to tell the difference between the two? You tell me...
Which one is the Puggle and which one is the Pug/Beagle mix?**
As of lately, the latest fad is to get a designer dog. A designer dog is a mix between 2 breeds such as a Labradoodle(Labrador Retriever/Poodle mix), Cockapoo(Cocker Spaniel/Poodle mix), Puggle(Pug/Beagle mix), Schnoodle(Schnauzer/Poodle mix) and the list goes on. Now some of you may be asking yourselves "What are the differences between a Labradoodle and a Labrador/Poodle mix?". The answer is usually nothing. They are the same thing. The main difference is that you can usually find one in a shelter for about $75 and you can buy the other from a breeder for about $3000. Is there a way to tell the difference between the two? You tell me...
Which one is the Puggle and which one is the Pug/Beagle mix?**
Which one is the Goldendoodle and which one is the Golden Retriever/Poodle mix?***
I'm sure some of you can't tell the difference but yet some people are spending big time money on designer dogs thinking they are getting something "different" or "unique" and that the dogs in the shelters/rescues are somehow inferior to those who were purposely bred by someone. I'm going to break down some things to help people understand that in a lot of cases, there really is no difference between the $1000 Puggle and the $100 Pug/Beagle sitting in a shelter or rescue.
1. What is the goal of the breeder?
If a breeder is cross-breeding dogs, what are they trying to accomplish? Are they trying to responsibly create a new breed? Signs a breeder is trying to create a new breed include using the best quality breeding stock to start off with. Unfortunately, this may be very hard because a lot of responsible purebreed breeders will not sell dogs to be used for cross-breeding. The breeder should be working with other breeders who also want to create a new breed. There should be a breed standard in mind. They should be breeding towards that standard. This means that they will evaluate pups and only breed those who come close to that standard and they will cull(spay/neuter) those who don't. The breeder may be involved in a breed club*. If the breeder has been involved in the cross-breeding for a while, they should be past using F1 crosses. An F1 cross is short for "first generation cross". An F1 cross means the offspring of a Cocker Spaniel and a Poodle.
If a breeder isn't doing any of this, then it's safe to say that this breeder is an irresponsible breeder and is probably breeding for the money. A lot of irresponsible breeders claim that this mix will soon become a "real breed" that will be recognized by the AKC or another reputable kennel club. If the breeder hasn't moved beyond F1 crosses, there is no way for this mix to become a real breed. The way a breed becomes a "real breed" is when it breeds "true to type". Breeding "true to type" means that when you breed a Labradoodle to a Labradoodle all the pups will come out looking like Labradoodles. Breeding true to type can take many generations over the years. The way a mix becomes a recognized breed is when fanciers create a breed club, they create a breed standard, they breed to that standard, there has to be at least 300 to 400 dogs of this breed and they petition the AKC or another reputable kennel club for recognition. Becoming a true recognized breed will never happen if the breeder isn't actively participating in seeing this come true and sadly, a lot of breeders aren't interested in creating a new breed.
*A note about breed clubs. Some designer dog breed clubs were created as a way to sell puppies instead of trying create a new breed. For example, the Cockapoo has been around since the 1960's. It has been around for over 40 years yet isn't remotely close to becoming a recognized breed. Now if the Boston Terrier could become a recognized breed within 30 years(The breedings began in the early 1860's, the Boston Terrier Club of America was formed in 1891 and it was given AKC recognition in 1893) then what's the Cockapoo's excuse?
Another thing to look for in breed clubs is how detailed the breed standard is. Some breed standards are so vague that anything can pass. For example, this is the Cockapoo breed standard set forth by the Cockapoo Club of America...
1. What is the goal of the breeder?
If a breeder is cross-breeding dogs, what are they trying to accomplish? Are they trying to responsibly create a new breed? Signs a breeder is trying to create a new breed include using the best quality breeding stock to start off with. Unfortunately, this may be very hard because a lot of responsible purebreed breeders will not sell dogs to be used for cross-breeding. The breeder should be working with other breeders who also want to create a new breed. There should be a breed standard in mind. They should be breeding towards that standard. This means that they will evaluate pups and only breed those who come close to that standard and they will cull(spay/neuter) those who don't. The breeder may be involved in a breed club*. If the breeder has been involved in the cross-breeding for a while, they should be past using F1 crosses. An F1 cross is short for "first generation cross". An F1 cross means the offspring of a Cocker Spaniel and a Poodle.
If a breeder isn't doing any of this, then it's safe to say that this breeder is an irresponsible breeder and is probably breeding for the money. A lot of irresponsible breeders claim that this mix will soon become a "real breed" that will be recognized by the AKC or another reputable kennel club. If the breeder hasn't moved beyond F1 crosses, there is no way for this mix to become a real breed. The way a breed becomes a "real breed" is when it breeds "true to type". Breeding "true to type" means that when you breed a Labradoodle to a Labradoodle all the pups will come out looking like Labradoodles. Breeding true to type can take many generations over the years. The way a mix becomes a recognized breed is when fanciers create a breed club, they create a breed standard, they breed to that standard, there has to be at least 300 to 400 dogs of this breed and they petition the AKC or another reputable kennel club for recognition. Becoming a true recognized breed will never happen if the breeder isn't actively participating in seeing this come true and sadly, a lot of breeders aren't interested in creating a new breed.
*A note about breed clubs. Some designer dog breed clubs were created as a way to sell puppies instead of trying create a new breed. For example, the Cockapoo has been around since the 1960's. It has been around for over 40 years yet isn't remotely close to becoming a recognized breed. Now if the Boston Terrier could become a recognized breed within 30 years(The breedings began in the early 1860's, the Boston Terrier Club of America was formed in 1891 and it was given AKC recognition in 1893) then what's the Cockapoo's excuse?
Another thing to look for in breed clubs is how detailed the breed standard is. Some breed standards are so vague that anything can pass. For example, this is the Cockapoo breed standard set forth by the Cockapoo Club of America...
- General: A dog that does not resemble either of the originating breeds. Unclipped/scissored in full coat has the general "Benji" appearance.
- Tail: Undocked preferred, carried straight or curled.
- Eyes: Large, round well-set brown eyes with a keen, soulful, endearing and intelligent look. Hair should be scissored back so as not to obstruct the eyes or vision. All breeding dogs should be certified annually by the Canine Eye Research Foundation as being free of genetic eye disease.
- Ears: Medium to long
- Dew Claws: Removed for safety
- Conformation: A sturdy square build with a healthy back structure; compact, well balanced, neither spindly nor coarse.
- Bites: Aligned bite with neither over or under bite. Level bites (incisors striking edge to edge) are acceptable but scissors bite (lower incisors striking just behind the uppers) is preferred. Overshot and undershot jaws are excluded from breeder registration.
- Colors: All colors and combinations are acceptable.
- Coat: Odorless and non-shedding. Long and full all over including legs and muzzle. Can range from loose curly but not kinky, to wavy to straight. Hair around the eyes should be trimmed so as not to impair the vision or ability to see the dog's eyes. Long natural well-groomed coats are the most preferred but dogs that are scissored to about 2 or 3 inches are also acceptable. Individual pets not being shown can be groomed to the owner's preference.
- Size Ranges: Teacup Toy - under 6 pounds grown weight Toy - under 12 pounds Miniature/Mini - 13 to 18 pounds Maxi - over 19 pounds.
- Disqualifications: Aggressiveness, shyness, genetic diseases, poor health, uncertain lineage.
Now check out these 3 dogs
According to the breed standard, all of these dogs would fit it yet all of them vary in physical appearance. Now check out the standards for the Cocker Spaniel and for the Poodle. Check out how detailed they are compared to the Cockapoo standard.
Now onto the best, although totally false and disgusting, part of the Cockapoo Club of America website. I just happened to glance at their FAQ and I was mortified by this statement...
WHY CAN'T I FIND A "REAL" COCKAPOO AT MY LOCAL SHELTER?
Because Cockapoos are so popular and in such great demand, people do not "get rid of them" and because our good breeders guarantee to take back any dog they have bred rather than see it wind up in a shelter. Again, good breeders usually maintain a waiting list of people wanting adult dogs. And Cockapoos in shelters, if you do find one, may not truly be a Cockapoo but may make a fine pet. We encourage people who are not fussy about parentage to adopt from the pound.
A "real" Cockapoo? As opposed to a fake one? Cockapoos are "in such great demand that people don't get rid of them"? That's interesting. People don't get rid of Cockapoos yet I managed to find several listings for them in Illinois shelters on Pet Finder. In fact, the Cockapoo pictures above are of Cockapoos in shelters in Illinois. There's even a "doodle rescue" that's dedicated to the rescue of "Poodle mixes" and even they have listings for Cockapoos. Yet they contradict themselves a few lines later by saying that "if you do find one in a shelter, it may not truly be a Cockapoo". In *my* opinion, that speaks volumes about the Cockapoo Club of America and how they feel about the welfare and future of the Cockapoo.
2. What are the breeders doing for the health of the breed?
ALL dog breeds are prone to health issues and cross-breeding dogs does NOT eliminate them despite what some breeders like to believe. A lot of designer dog breeders believe in Hybrid Vigor. Hybrid Vigor is something that can occur to the offspring of 2 different species. The offspring can be healthier. The thing is a cross-bred dog is NOT a hybrid. A hybrid is the offspring of 2 different species. A mule is a hybrid(Equus caballus x Equus asinus) and a liger is a hybrid(panthera leo x panthera tigris). All dogs, whether they be a Labrador Retriever or a Poodle, are the same species Canis lupus familiaris. This means that Hybrid Vigor cannot apply to dogs.
With that said, a breeder should be utilizing health testing such as CERF, OFA, BAER and other testing. If a breeder is doing none of this then that means they are being irresponsible.
And don't buy into the hype that their dogs are healthier because they aren't in-bred or line-bred. In-breeding is a close breeding such as a mother to a son/father to a daughter and line-breeding is a breeding such as grandfather to granddaughter/uncle to a niece. Outcrossing is the breeding of 2 unrelated dogs. Now in-breeding and line-breeding does not automatically create unhealthy dogs just like out-crossing does not automatically create healthy dogs. It all boils down to the knowledge of the breeder and how well he/she knows the dogs backgrounds and Mother Nature. In-breeding and line-breeding can be a useful tool in a breeding program. It can set uniformity in a line and it can accentuate the positive or it can accentuate the negative. It is also how you set traits in a breed and is very important in creating a breed. Because a lot of designer breed breeders are against in-breeding and line-breeding, this is why a lot of their dogs do not resemble each other and it may be a huge reason as to why these breeds have not bred true to type and/or aren't recognized breeds. Out-crossing has its' risks as well. If you have no clue about the dogs backgrounds and you happen to breed 2 dogs who both come from lines afflicted with Juvenile Cataracts, you have just increased the chances that the pups may be afflicted with JC. This is why it's extremely important for breeders to know their dogs backgrounds well and to have an understanding of genetics.
3. Hypo-allergenic and non-shedding claims.
A lot of breeders of designer breeds like to tout these breeds as "non-shedding" or "hypo-allergenic". This is an iffy thing. If a breeder is crossing a shedding breed, such as a Labrador Retriever, with a non-shedding breed, such as a Poodle, there is NO way to guarantee that the pups will end up non-shedding. Genetics doesn't work that way. Some pups may shed and some pups may not shed. Some pups may appear non-shed when they are young but once they shed their puppy coat, they have a shedding coat. This is especially true of F1 crosses. Unless the breeder is beyond F1 crosses and their dogs are at the point of breeding true to type, there is NO way to guarantee a pup to be non-shed especially if one of the breeds involved is a shedding breed. There is no predictability when you are mixing breeds.
A lot of designer dog breeders claim their mix is "hypo-allergenic" and that this is the only type of dog they can be around. Again, this is an iffy thing. First of all, there really isn't a true "hypo-allergenic" dog out there. One must understand allergies. Some people are allergic to dog fur, some are allergic to dog dander and some are allergic to dog saliva. All dogs produce dander. Some seem to have less of it. These dog breeds include those who have to have their fur "stripped" or "plucked". Obviously, all dogs have saliva. All dogs have fur, except for hairless breeds, yet dog fur can vary in length and texture. A person really has to know what they are allergic to. Some people can do perfectly fine with long coated dogs and some people can't. Some people can do fine with a short coated dog and some people can't. Some people can do fine with a dog breed that has a coat that needs to be stripped or plucked and some can't. Some people can't do fine with any type of dog.
If you have dog allergies, it's really important to find out what triggers your allergies before you bring a dog home. It may be best to visit different types of dogs to see how you react. If you are allergic to dog saliva, it won't matter if the dog is non-shed. If you are allergic to dog dander, even a breed that produces low dander may trigger an allergic reaction. If you have allergies and really want a dog, I would highly suggest that you go with a purebreed dog and the reason I suggest that is because purebreed dogs have had their traits set for many years. You'll know exactly what you're getting. Here is a list of purebreed dogs that are supposedly good for those who suffer from allergies but please keep in mind that even these dogs can trigger allergic reactions.
With that said, don't believe the hype about certain designer dogs being non-shed or hypo-allergenic. Some may and some may not be. Allergies are not the same in everyone.
4. $3000?! Good Lord!
One thing that stands out about some of these designer breeds is their price tag. I have seen them range in price up to $5000! That's quite a lot of change for a dog. A lot of times, that price is higher than what it would cost to buy a show quality purebreed dog. If a breeder is charging big time bucks for their pups, I would ask why their pups command such a high price tag? If they are using quality breeding stock, are utilizing health testing and are proving their dogs in some way(such as obedience, agility or rally) then it can be understandable as to why they may charge a high price although I do not believe it should be more than what a responsibly bred purebreed dog would cost. If they aren't breeding responsibly then there is no reason to charge that price other than because they are greedy and are trying to make a buck.
And that my friends is my thoughts on designer dogs. It's definitely "buyer beware". I hope this has helped those who were thinking about buying from a breeder. As with purebreed breeders, there are very few responsible mixed breed breeders. To make a long story short, if a breeder is...
1. Using poor quality breeding stock.
2. Is not trying to create a new breed.
3. Is not utilizing health testing.
4. Is not doing anything along the lines of responsible breeding.
5. Is charging upwards of $5000 for their pups.
Then there is no difference between the $1000 Shichon and the $75 Schnauzer/Bichon Frise sitting in a shelter or rescue.
**The Puggle on the left is from a shelter and the Puggle on the right is from a breeder.
***The Goldendoodle on the left is from a breeder and the Goldendoodle on the right is from a shelter.
Clicky here to play the "Designer Dog Breed" game.
Now onto the best, although totally false and disgusting, part of the Cockapoo Club of America website. I just happened to glance at their FAQ and I was mortified by this statement...
WHY CAN'T I FIND A "REAL" COCKAPOO AT MY LOCAL SHELTER?
Because Cockapoos are so popular and in such great demand, people do not "get rid of them" and because our good breeders guarantee to take back any dog they have bred rather than see it wind up in a shelter. Again, good breeders usually maintain a waiting list of people wanting adult dogs. And Cockapoos in shelters, if you do find one, may not truly be a Cockapoo but may make a fine pet. We encourage people who are not fussy about parentage to adopt from the pound.
A "real" Cockapoo? As opposed to a fake one? Cockapoos are "in such great demand that people don't get rid of them"? That's interesting. People don't get rid of Cockapoos yet I managed to find several listings for them in Illinois shelters on Pet Finder. In fact, the Cockapoo pictures above are of Cockapoos in shelters in Illinois. There's even a "doodle rescue" that's dedicated to the rescue of "Poodle mixes" and even they have listings for Cockapoos. Yet they contradict themselves a few lines later by saying that "if you do find one in a shelter, it may not truly be a Cockapoo". In *my* opinion, that speaks volumes about the Cockapoo Club of America and how they feel about the welfare and future of the Cockapoo.
2. What are the breeders doing for the health of the breed?
ALL dog breeds are prone to health issues and cross-breeding dogs does NOT eliminate them despite what some breeders like to believe. A lot of designer dog breeders believe in Hybrid Vigor. Hybrid Vigor is something that can occur to the offspring of 2 different species. The offspring can be healthier. The thing is a cross-bred dog is NOT a hybrid. A hybrid is the offspring of 2 different species. A mule is a hybrid(Equus caballus x Equus asinus) and a liger is a hybrid(panthera leo x panthera tigris). All dogs, whether they be a Labrador Retriever or a Poodle, are the same species Canis lupus familiaris. This means that Hybrid Vigor cannot apply to dogs.
With that said, a breeder should be utilizing health testing such as CERF, OFA, BAER and other testing. If a breeder is doing none of this then that means they are being irresponsible.
And don't buy into the hype that their dogs are healthier because they aren't in-bred or line-bred. In-breeding is a close breeding such as a mother to a son/father to a daughter and line-breeding is a breeding such as grandfather to granddaughter/uncle to a niece. Outcrossing is the breeding of 2 unrelated dogs. Now in-breeding and line-breeding does not automatically create unhealthy dogs just like out-crossing does not automatically create healthy dogs. It all boils down to the knowledge of the breeder and how well he/she knows the dogs backgrounds and Mother Nature. In-breeding and line-breeding can be a useful tool in a breeding program. It can set uniformity in a line and it can accentuate the positive or it can accentuate the negative. It is also how you set traits in a breed and is very important in creating a breed. Because a lot of designer breed breeders are against in-breeding and line-breeding, this is why a lot of their dogs do not resemble each other and it may be a huge reason as to why these breeds have not bred true to type and/or aren't recognized breeds. Out-crossing has its' risks as well. If you have no clue about the dogs backgrounds and you happen to breed 2 dogs who both come from lines afflicted with Juvenile Cataracts, you have just increased the chances that the pups may be afflicted with JC. This is why it's extremely important for breeders to know their dogs backgrounds well and to have an understanding of genetics.
3. Hypo-allergenic and non-shedding claims.
A lot of breeders of designer breeds like to tout these breeds as "non-shedding" or "hypo-allergenic". This is an iffy thing. If a breeder is crossing a shedding breed, such as a Labrador Retriever, with a non-shedding breed, such as a Poodle, there is NO way to guarantee that the pups will end up non-shedding. Genetics doesn't work that way. Some pups may shed and some pups may not shed. Some pups may appear non-shed when they are young but once they shed their puppy coat, they have a shedding coat. This is especially true of F1 crosses. Unless the breeder is beyond F1 crosses and their dogs are at the point of breeding true to type, there is NO way to guarantee a pup to be non-shed especially if one of the breeds involved is a shedding breed. There is no predictability when you are mixing breeds.
A lot of designer dog breeders claim their mix is "hypo-allergenic" and that this is the only type of dog they can be around. Again, this is an iffy thing. First of all, there really isn't a true "hypo-allergenic" dog out there. One must understand allergies. Some people are allergic to dog fur, some are allergic to dog dander and some are allergic to dog saliva. All dogs produce dander. Some seem to have less of it. These dog breeds include those who have to have their fur "stripped" or "plucked". Obviously, all dogs have saliva. All dogs have fur, except for hairless breeds, yet dog fur can vary in length and texture. A person really has to know what they are allergic to. Some people can do perfectly fine with long coated dogs and some people can't. Some people can do fine with a short coated dog and some people can't. Some people can do fine with a dog breed that has a coat that needs to be stripped or plucked and some can't. Some people can't do fine with any type of dog.
If you have dog allergies, it's really important to find out what triggers your allergies before you bring a dog home. It may be best to visit different types of dogs to see how you react. If you are allergic to dog saliva, it won't matter if the dog is non-shed. If you are allergic to dog dander, even a breed that produces low dander may trigger an allergic reaction. If you have allergies and really want a dog, I would highly suggest that you go with a purebreed dog and the reason I suggest that is because purebreed dogs have had their traits set for many years. You'll know exactly what you're getting. Here is a list of purebreed dogs that are supposedly good for those who suffer from allergies but please keep in mind that even these dogs can trigger allergic reactions.
With that said, don't believe the hype about certain designer dogs being non-shed or hypo-allergenic. Some may and some may not be. Allergies are not the same in everyone.
4. $3000?! Good Lord!
One thing that stands out about some of these designer breeds is their price tag. I have seen them range in price up to $5000! That's quite a lot of change for a dog. A lot of times, that price is higher than what it would cost to buy a show quality purebreed dog. If a breeder is charging big time bucks for their pups, I would ask why their pups command such a high price tag? If they are using quality breeding stock, are utilizing health testing and are proving their dogs in some way(such as obedience, agility or rally) then it can be understandable as to why they may charge a high price although I do not believe it should be more than what a responsibly bred purebreed dog would cost. If they aren't breeding responsibly then there is no reason to charge that price other than because they are greedy and are trying to make a buck.
And that my friends is my thoughts on designer dogs. It's definitely "buyer beware". I hope this has helped those who were thinking about buying from a breeder. As with purebreed breeders, there are very few responsible mixed breed breeders. To make a long story short, if a breeder is...
1. Using poor quality breeding stock.
2. Is not trying to create a new breed.
3. Is not utilizing health testing.
4. Is not doing anything along the lines of responsible breeding.
5. Is charging upwards of $5000 for their pups.
Then there is no difference between the $1000 Shichon and the $75 Schnauzer/Bichon Frise sitting in a shelter or rescue.
**The Puggle on the left is from a shelter and the Puggle on the right is from a breeder.
***The Goldendoodle on the left is from a breeder and the Goldendoodle on the right is from a shelter.
Clicky here to play the "Designer Dog Breed" game.